| [1] | Peregrine D. H., “Long waves on a beach,” J. Fluid Mech, 27. 815-827. 1967. |
| |
| [2] | Witting, J.M., “A unified model for the evolution of nonlinear water waves,” J. Comput. Phys, 56. 203-236. 1984. |
| |
| [3] | Madsen P. A., Sch¨affer H. A., Higher-order Boussinesq type equations for surface gravity waves: Derivation and analysis, Proc. R. Soc. London, 3123-318, 1998. |
| |
| [4] | Madsen P. A., Sørensen O. R., “A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry,” Coastal Eng, 18. 183-204. 1992. |
| |
| [5] | Nwogu O., “Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation,” Coastal Eng, 15. 371-388. 1991. |
| |
| [6] | Wei G., Kirby J. T., Grilli S. T., Subramanya R., “A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves, Part 1: Highly nonlinear unsteady waves,” J. Fluid Mech, 294. 71-92. 1995. |
| |
| [7] | Lynett P. J., Liu P. L. F., “Linear analysis of the multi-layer model,” Coastal Eng, 35 51. 439-454. 2004. |
| |
| [8] | Kennedy A. B., Kirby J. T., Chen Q., Dalrymple R. A., “Boussinesq-type equations with improved nonlinear behavior,” Wave Motion, 33. 225-243. 2001. |
| |
| [9] | Li B., “Equations for regular and irregular water wave propagation,” J. Waterway, Port,Coastal, and Ocean Eng, 134(2).121-142. 2008. |
| |
| [10] | Gobbi M. F., Kirby J. T., Wei G., “A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves, Part 2: Extension to O(kh)4,” J. Fluid Mech, 405. 181-210. 2000. |
| |
| [11] | Nadaoka K., Beji S., Nakagawa Y., A fully dispersive weakly nonlinear model for water waves, Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 453, 303-318, 1997. |
| |
| [12] | Madsen P. A., Murray R., Sørensen O. R., “A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics,” Coastal Eng, 15. 371-388. 1991. |
| |
| [13] | Beji S., Nadaoka K., “A formal derivation and numerical modeling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth,” Coastal Eng, 23(8). 691-704. 1996. |
| |
| [14] | Antunes do Carmo J. S., Seabra Santos F. J., Barth´elemy E., “Surface waves propagation in shallow water: A finite element model,” Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 16. 447-459. 1993. |
| |
| [15] | Ambrosi D., Quartapelle L., “A Taylor–Galerkin method for simulating nonlinear dispersive water waves,” J. Comput. Phys, 146. 546-569. 1998. |
| |
| [16] | Eskilsson C., Sherwin S. J., “A discontinuous spectral element model for Boussinesq type equations,” J. Sci. Comput, 17. 143-152. 2002. |
| |
| [17] | Eskilsson C., Sherwin S. J., “Discontinuous Galerkin spectral/hp element modeling of dispersive shallow water systems,” J. Sci. Comput, 22. 269-288. 2005. |
| |
| [18] | Li Y. S., Liu S. X., Yu Y. X., Lai G. Z., “Numerical modeling of Boussinesq equations by finite element method, ” Coastal Eng, 37. 97-122. 1999. |
| |
| [19] | Walkley M., Berzins M., “A finite element method for the one-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations,” Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 29. 143-157. 1999. |
| |
| [20] | Walkley M., Berzins M., “A finite element method for the two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations,” Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 39. 865-885. 2002. |
| |
| [21] | Ole R. Sørensen, Hemming A. Scha¨ffer, Lars S. Sørensen, “Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique,” Coastal Eng, 50. 181-198. 2004. |
| |
| [22] | Bradford S. F., Sanders B. F., “Finite-volume models for unidirectional, nonlinear, dispersive waves,” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng, 128. 173-182. 2002. |
| |
| [23] | Stansby P. K., “Solitary wave run up and overtopping by a semi-implicit finite-volume shallow-water Boussinesq model,” J. Hydraulic Res, 41. 639-647. 2003. |
| |
| [24] | Erduran K. S., Ilic S., Kutija V., “Hybrid finite-volume 1 finite-difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations,” Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 49. 1213- 1232, 2005. |
| |
| [25] | Ning D. Z., Zang J., Liang Q., Taylor P. H., Borthwick A. G. L., “Boussinesq cut-cell model for nonlinear wave interaction with coastal structures,” Int. J. Numer. Meth.Fluids, 57. 1459-1483. 2008. |
| |
| [26] | Dean R. G., Dalrymple R. A., Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, World Scientific, Singapore, 2000. |
| |
| [27] | Luth H. R., Klopman G., Kitou N., Projects 13G: Kinematics of waves breaking partially on an offshore bar, LVD measurements for waves without a net onshore current, Technical Rep. No. H1573, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, the Netherlands. 1994 |
| |