Yang Guan¹, Yao Sun^1,, Xiao-chen Gao², Tian Tian¹, Jia-yuan Yang¹, Yi Xu¹

Based on the traditional medicine cosmetic formula, sika deer skin peptides (SDSP) and the effective ingredients extracted from Angelica dahurica were added for preparation of a new cosmetic raw material. In this study, the composite protease group was selected as the tool enzyme by single factor orthogonal test and response surface method for hydrolyzing the total protein of deer skin. The optimal enzymatic hydrolysis process of deer skin protein was as follows: temperature at 51°C, pH 7.0, 6000 U/g of enzyme addition and reaction time in 5h and SDSP was obtained. The molecular weight of SDSP was 851 Da to 11 092 Da by exclusion chromatography analysis. The analysis of amino acid composition showed that SDSP were rich in Gly, Ala, Pro, Hyp and terpeneine. Under the same extraction conditions, ethanol extract content from Angelica dahurica showed a highest level, 8 kinds of furocoumarines compounds were identified in it by HPLC-ESI-MS analysis. The results also demonstrated that mixture of Angelica dahurica extraction and SDSP with the rate of 2:1 indicated the best moisturizing effect. Free radical scavenging ability of facial base liquids reached 81% in 2.0 mg/mL. The inhibition rates of tyrosinase reached 61.12% at 8 mg/mL. This new cosmetics raw materials provided a basic process for producing cosmetic raw material with remarkable whitening effect and excellent moisturizing performance.

Cervus nippon, commercial facial materials, Angelica dahurica, HPLC-ESI-MS